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I gotta say it was a good day...



Last night my cell phone died in the middle of text central...3 friends, my son, and my little brother, all looking to see what my plans were for surfing this morning. 8am, let's do it! So I decided to charge the phone and go to bed...and when I awoke at 7 this morning, the backyard was coverred in fog...good...here come the texts, where am I, what am I doing? I'm still in bed waiting for the fog (and mental fog) to lift...but i couldn't wait...the excitement was too much...had to get the boards loaded up. Then my son called..."Uh mom, can you bring me my board too and I will meet you there?" noooooo!!!!! I am ready to leave noooooooowwww!!!" He said I was over-reacting...I'm thinking "Well yeah if it had been 6 weeks since you'd been surfing you would be spitting fire at anyone who got in your way too!" Good thing my friend was already in the water when I got there cuz it wasn't looking all that great and when it's winter, chilly, and it doesn't look perfect, it's hard to get out there...but I was committed...and I knew I was back, cuz when I stepped out of the truck I could smell that salt air that changes everything...it was enough to push me forward towards the shorebreak and then it hit me...the 58 degree water over my feet, my brain's response that always says the same thing "Oh, it's not that cold"...then the shift to focus on getting outside quickly...over pounding shorebreak and away from the danger zone...then...the ice cream headache...and stretching my shoulders and neck my putting my head down, which inadvertantly causes motion sickness so I tilted my head up slightly and smiled towards san pedro...thinking...all I need is one perfect wave...nothing else mattered. That was 8 hours ago and I am still smiling. I'm glad I had this surgery...maybe if I wasn't a surfer and in a bathing suit and wetsuit all the time, I wouldn't be so concerned about my weight...but I want to surf better, lighter, and with more style...so I need to shed this flesh that inhibits me...I will have to invest in a warmer wettie.


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